Nigel Slater's classic soft-set jam recipe

Once the price starts to come down towards the end of the summer berry season, it is worth thinking about making softly set, brightly flavoured jam with raspberries, tayberries and loganberries.

The recipe

Put 900g of assorted raspberries, tayberries or loganberries into a pan with 800g of jam sugar. Place over the heat, stir briefly, then cook at a lively boil for 6 minutes, or until the currants start to burst. Pour into warm, sterilised jars, leave to settle for 5 minutes then seal and cool. Keep in the fridge.

The trick

Raspberries and loganberries contain reasonable amounts of the natural setting agent pectin and will produce a nice, soft set without any help. Blackberries contain very little so it is best to add a little pectin. You can buy pectin in wholefood shops and chemists. Jam sugar – granulated sugar with added pectin – is a good way to get fruits set that are low in it, such as rhubarb, blackberries and strawberries. Slightly under-ripe berries will produce a better set than over-ripe. Sterilise your jam jars in the oven before the jam is poured in and fill to the top before sealing.

The twist

Add a few blackcurrants to the basic jam recipe for an extra-rich flavour and colour. If you don't mind your jam being very softly set, include a spoonful of eau de vie, such as framboise, at the end. Serve the jam before it cools with slices of almond cake or fresh-from-the-oven madeleines.

Email Nigel at nigel.slater@observer.co.uk or visit theguardian.com/profile/nigelslater for all his recipes in one place

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